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怎样把粗花呢穿出时尚 How to Wear Tweed and Stay Cool

发布者: katy | 发布时间: 2010-12-21 23:04| 查看数: 1887| 评论数: 0|

Q: Ah, tweed, the fabric of aristocratic fox hunts and stuffy professors. And now, suddenly as fashionable in Asia's urban jungles as it is on Europe's country estates. But how can you incorporate the fabric into a modern male wardrobe?

A: Along with plaid, that other traditional outdoor fabric associated with cooler weather, tweed has made a strong appearence this season in both jackets and pants. Still, you're cautious, even trepidatious, of wearing it out of fear of becoming, well, tweedy?

Nonsense. First of all, know that today's tweed is not the dour fabric of years gone by. Slightly softer and thinner, the modern take on tweed isn't the itchy fabric that our ancestors used to wear. Even the tweediest of tweed makers ─ Harris Tweed Scotland Ltd., one of the three mills whose Harris Tweed is certified by the U.K. government ─ launched a lightweight tweed in September. Within the first two weeks, the company's run of 5,000 jackets in the new fabric were completely sold out.

The Scottish tweed maker is surprised that its staple is now the height of fashion. 'We see now, walking down the high street, so many people in tweed,' said Lydia Walton, director of public relations at Harris Tweed Scotland. 'It was snowballing for a couple of years, but this year, it's been huge. I don't really know why.'

The tip is to match the tweed to the occasion. If you're going to the country or spending time outdoors, choose tweed in earthy tones, such as the Hamish design in green and brown checks. Dress it with a white shirt, jeans and a pair of brown brogues or boots. For urban settings, you are better off with darker colors, such as a black and white herringbone check. This style in a jacket goes well with grey flannel trousers and a dark-colored shirt.

Of course, these are merely guidlines. Tweed fashion, like all fashion, differs in various parts of the world. 'In Italy, they'll wear the Hamish design with pencil trousers and pointy shoes ─ not what we see here in the U.K.,' said Ms. Walton.

If there's one rule to adhere to, it would be this: Never pair your tweed jacket with tweed pants, especially if they match. A tweed suit? Not even for the driest of academic conferences. 'Once you wear a tweed suit, you look slightly mad,' she said. We tend to agree.

问:粗花呢这种衣料属于那些猎狐的贵族和老古板的教授,出没的地点则是欧洲各地的乡间别墅。如今,它突然变成了亚洲都市丛林里的流行事物。不过,作为一名现代男性,我们该怎样穿这种料子的衣服呢?

Getty Images温暖粗花呢时尚搭之明星示范答:跟格子呢料──另一种适于寒冷天气的传统户外衣料──一样,粗花呢也已经强势进入今季时尚,在上衣和裤子当中都有表现。不过,真要穿着它上街,你还是有点儿犹豫,甚至还有点儿担心,担心别人说你随便,对吧?

大可不必。首先,你得知道,今天的粗花呢已经不像以前那样粗糙厚重了。现在的粗花呢比以前软,也比以前薄,不再是前人穿着的那种扎人料子。苏格兰海力司粗花呢公司(Harris Tweed Scotland Ltd)是最最正宗的粗花呢制造商之一,得到英国政府认证的海力司粗花呢(Harris Tweed)厂商共有三家,该公司就是其中之一。即便是他们也在9月推出了一种轻便的粗花呢。上市的头两个星期,该公司用这种料子制作的5,000件外套就已经销售一空。

看到自家的常规商品突然站到了时尚的巅峰,这家苏格兰粗花呢厂商大感惊奇。该公司公关总监莉迪亚•沃顿(Lydia Walton)说,“我们已经看到,繁华的大街上到处都是穿着粗花呢的人。前两年当中,粗花呢的风尚一直呈现着一种滚雪球般的缓慢发展趋势,今年却突然间变成了大雪崩。我也不太清楚这是什么原因。”

关键在于把粗花呢跟场合搭配起来。如果要去乡间或者参加户外活动,你就应该选择田园系列,比如那种“哈米什”(Hamish)绿褐格子呢料,再配上白衬衫、牛仔裤和一双褐色的粗皮靴或是靴子。在市区的时候,你不妨选择深一点的颜色,比如人字形的黑白格子。这种花样的上装跟灰色法兰绒裤子和深色衬衫很配。

当然,以上这些不过是大致的原则而已。跟其他所有风尚一样,粗花呢风尚也是因地而异。沃顿女士说,“意大利人会拿哈米什粗花呢来配铅笔裤和尖头鞋,英国这边的人却不会这么穿。”

要说有什么必须遵守的规则的话,应该就是以下这条:千万别把粗花呢上装跟粗花呢裤子配在一起,两样东西如果花色搭配,那就更不行。粗花呢西服?最沉闷无聊的学术会议上都不会有这种东西。沃顿女士说,“要是你穿一件粗花呢西服,人家就会觉得你脑袋有点儿毛病。”我们也这么觉得。

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