Black tie is bound by rules and traditions,” says Robert Whitt-aker, shirtmaker at Savile Row tailors Dege & Skinner. “It’s hard to change much without undermining the formality of what you’re wearing.” But, he adds, “there is a big range of possibilities with the shirt, whether it’s the immediate choice between pleats and marcella or the style of collar.” When it comes to black tie, the difference is in the dress shirt details.		“系黑领带受礼仪及传统习俗约束，“萨维尔街(Savile Row)裁缝行Dege & Skinner的衬衫制作师罗伯特?惠特克(Robert Whitt?aker)说。“若对黑领带作大改动，一定会大大影响正式外套的穿着效果。”但他又补充说，“选褶皱面料、凹凸纹细布料、或者不同领口款式的衬衣，可供选择的余地还是非常大的。”但一说到黑色领带，差别就只在礼服衬衫的细枝末节了。
Traditional dress shirts presumed that a man would never remove his jacket during the evening. The front, therefore, was shaped to fit the gap left by his waistcoat or open jacket. A starched oval section would be cut to the curved opening of the waistcoat, later replaced by waffle-like marcella. When men in tropical climes began wearing a cummerbund instead of a waistcoat, the shirt front was amended to a long, rectangular section, which suited pleats. And thus choice was born.		传统礼服衬衫一般默认男士整晚活动期间不会脱去外套。因此，衬衣正面剪裁出的样式刚好可以填补马甲或不系扣外套留出的空间。于是裁剪出椭圆形的浆洗布面，以契合马甲留出的弧形空间，而后再用华夫饼式的凹凸纹细布料制作而成。热带地区的男士系宽腰带而不是穿马甲时，衬衣正面就修剪为长长的矩形布面，以搭配褶皱布实际之需。如此一来，取舍自然就尘埃落定。
But it’s not just a choice between starched, marcella or pleated front. Also up for debate are wing collars or turndowns; French or cocktail cuffs; stud, button or a fly front. Not to mention the shirt’s back, which can be anything from regular cotton to an almost transparent voile. British army officers even established a tradition of using cotton printed with bright patterns or cartoon characters. During mess dinner, their jackets would remain on and the outfit seemingly formal; afterwards the jackets would be removed, displaying their humorous creations. It’s enough to give a man option anxiety.		但这并非仅仅是浆洗布、凹凸纹细布还是褶面布的选择问题。争论不休的还有采用硬翻领还是一般翻领，选择翻边袖口还是一般袖口，以及选择缀饰扣、真纽扣还是暗门襟的问题。衬衣背面更无所谓了，它既能使用一般的棉布、也能采用近乎透明的薄纱。英国军官甚至久已有此传统：用印有亮色图案或卡通人物的棉布料做衬衣。在海军传统西式晚宴上，外套不脱时，整个行头似乎也颇为合乎礼仪；之后脱去外套，一下子就把军官们的诙谐创意显露无遗。男士做出自己的选择时，定会大伤脑筋。
“There are so many possibilities that customers usually need a little bit of guidance on combinations and propriety,” says bespoke shirtmaker Sean O’Flynn, who has seen an increase in orders of dress shirts in recent months. One was from an ambassador in London who ordered three in different styles: wing collar with a starched front, turndown collar with marcella, and plain-fronted.		“选择的余地如此之多，因此顾客通常需要就搭配组合的得体与否寻求一点咨询意见，”定制衬衣制作师西恩?奥弗林(Sean O’Flynn)说，近几个月，他所接的定制衬衣订单渐趋增多。其中一位顾客就是驻守伦敦的某国大使，他订制了三件不同款式的衬衣：一件正面为浆洗布的硬翻领衬衣、一件为凹凸纹细布料翻领衬衣、一件则为素色普通衬衣。
“Wing collars have been particularly popular, as well as designs that have a tab to fasten into the waistband of the trousers,” says O’Flynn. This elasticated tab is intended to keep the shirt front taut, mimicking the old starched fronts.		“硬翻领尤其受欢迎，此外我还设计了可固定至裤腰带上的衬衣标签，”奥弗林说。这种伸缩标签模仿原先的浆洗布衬衣正面，让整个衬衣正面显得十分挺括。
Damien Paul of matchesfashion.com has observed “a surge of interest in formal and dress shirts as the party season approaches”. “This season there is a particularly wide range of styles, from point-collar pleat-front shirts at Valentino and Saint Laurent to simple wingtip shirts from Balenciaga,” he says. “And several brands are introducing unique elements to their dress shirting: Dolce & Gabbana, for example, has created a collarless dress shirt with a lace front bib, while Maison Martin Margiela’s white shirt comes with a contrasting navy front.”		matchesfashion.com的达明?保罗(Damien Paul)注意到“派对季的消费者对正装衬衣以及礼服衬衣的兴趣空前高涨”。“这个服装季，从华伦天奴(Valentino)与圣?洛兰(Saint Laurent)的正面褶皱尖领衬衣到巴黎世家(Balenciaga)的普通翼尖款衬衣，各种款式一应俱全，”他说。“几大品牌还对礼服衬衣作了独特的改动：比方说，杜嘉班纳(Dolce & Gabbana)别出心裁地推出了蕾丝开胸吊带式无领衬衣，而马丁?马吉拉(Maison Martin Margiela)白衬衣正面则采用了鲜明对比度的深蓝色。”
Indeed, you need only consider the shirts that Karl Lagerfeld wears to see the dress shirt’s influence on designers. Lagerfeld has his shirts made at a very traditional shirtmaker, Hilditch & Key in Paris. His father shopped there and introduced him to the shop when he was a young man. Forty years later, Lagerfeld’s style has blossomed into the high, stiff collars that have become his trademark, often with a long wing collar just touching the body of the shirt.		勿庸置疑，诸位只需看一下卡尔?拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld)所穿的衬衣，就能对礼服衬衣如何影响设计师一清二楚了。拉格菲尔德的衬衣由巴黎异常传统的衬衣裁缝行Hilditch & Key定制。他父亲曾是该店的常客，在拉格菲尔德还是年轻小伙子的时候，父亲就把他介绍给该裁缝行。40年后，拉格菲尔德的衬衣款式变成了硬高领（已成为他的服装标志），长长的硬翻领往往恰如其分。
“Mr Lagerfeld sends me his new designs by post,” says Bruce Philips, store manager at Hilditch. “We send back a finished shirt, and if he likes it we will probably make 30 or 40. He is very much inspired by dress shirts, particularly wing collars and their iterations. It helps that nearly all the collars are detachable and stiff, in the old-fashioned style.”		“拉格菲尔德把他的新设计邮寄给我，”Hilditch门店经理布鲁斯?菲利浦斯(Bruce Philips)说。“我们则把做好的衬衣寄给他，他若真喜欢上了，我们可能就会做好30至40件。礼服衬衣深深地启发了他的设计灵感，尤其是硬翻领式样。几乎所有的领子都采用老款衬衣那种可拆卸式硬质领。”