A GUY IN A CLASSIC navy blazer-that blue-blood stalwart traditionally made of wool, flannel or hopsack and stitched with those gold buttons-often conjures two conservative archetypes. There's the young tyke looking spiffy in his rite-of-passage Brooks Brothers jacket at Sunday service, and there's his all-grown-up counterpart, sipping a Cape Codder at the country club. The navy blazer has become so emblematic of status, it can single-handedly carry a phony Rockefeller, or a talented Tom Ripley, over the most WASPy of thresholds.

当一个男人穿上经典海军蓝休闲西装，也就是那种传统由羊毛、法兰绒或席纹呢制成的、缝有金扣子的高贵挺括的西装，通常会幻化出两种具有代表性的保守造型。一种是年轻小伙子穿着象征自己步入成年的Brooks Brothers外套参加礼拜仪式，看起来干净利落，一种是成熟老男人在乡村俱乐部品尝着一杯Cape Codder酒。海军蓝休闲西装太具有身份代表性了，它可以让一个冒牌的洛克菲勒家族成员或者天才瑞普利(Tom Ripley)踏入白人精英阶层的行列。

Though the jacket's crest-patched beginnings trace back to the 1800s, when they were worn by a rowing club at Cambridge, it's commonly believed to be named after the British warship the HMS Blazer, whose Royal Navy crew members began sporting the style as part of their uniforms in 1837. Since then, the jacket has become de rigueur for prep schoolers, yacht clubbers and impostors alike. But thanks to designer takes on the traditional staple, the navy blazer has shaken off its lockjaw connotations and can be worn by any man, not just Harvard and Yale alumni.

尽管休闲西装缝制徽章装饰的历史要追溯到1800年代，而当它被剑桥大学(Cambridge)赛艇俱乐部成员穿在身上时，人们普遍认为它是以英国战舰HMS Blazer命名的。战舰上的皇家海军船员从1837年开始把这种风格作为制服的一部分。此后，这种款式成了预科生、游艇俱乐部会员还有骗子们的规范服装。但由于设计师接纳了这种传统的代表性服装，海军蓝休闲西装已经甩掉了令人神经紧张的内涵，不光是哈佛和耶鲁的校友，现在人人都可以穿了。

The style has shed its coat-of-arms emblazoned buttons, tapered its length, lightened its woolly load and made way for other shades of blue-including cobalt and royal (no powder, please). These new incarnations can be worn with much more than a button-down and tie, from striped boat-necks to denim shirts.

现代风格去掉了盾徽装饰的纽扣，衣长改短，减轻了羊毛重量，而且纳入了其他的蓝色――包括钴蓝和皇家蓝（不好意思，没有浅灰蓝）。这些新款式除了可以和领尖带扣衬衫及领带搭配，其适配范围之广，从船型领条纹T恤到牛仔衬衫都没问题。今年春季，除了标志性的1818麦迪逊(Madison)和修身的菲茨杰拉德1818(Fitzgerald，以忠实顾客约翰・菲茨杰拉德・肯尼迪(J.F.K.)而命名) ，Brooks Brothers还新出了两款修身蓝色休闲西装。

This spring, Brooks Brothers offers two trimmer blue blazer styles in addition to the iconic 1818 Madison and slimmer-bodied Fitzgerald 1818 (named for loyal customer J.F.K.).'It's the foundation for any man's tailored wardrobe,' said Jeff Blee, Brooks Brothers' vice president of North America merchandise management. 'It can be worn with anything-it's up to the wearer to make it his own.' Aaron Levine, vice president of men's design at Club Monaco, which offers notched lapel numbers in cashmere and cotton-canvas, agreed. 'It goes across all seasons,' he said. 'Today I'm wearing it with black denims and a silk oxblood pocket square.'

Brooks Brothers北美商品管理副总裁杰夫・布里(Jeff Blee)说：“它是任何男士定制衣橱的基本单品。跟什么搭配都可以――关键在于穿的人怎么选。” Club Monaco男装设计副总裁艾伦・莱文(Aaron Levine)表示赞同。他说：“它一年四季都可以穿。今天我搭配的是黑色牛仔衬衫和深红色真丝装饰方巾。”Club Monaco生产羊绒和棉帆布的缺口领休闲西装。

Armani has loosened up the blazer's square shoulders for an easy-breezy, unstructured effect suitable for the Riviera. Saint Laurent paired its midnight-blue patterned version with a mustard button-down and neon-pink zipper boots (perhaps a look best left on the runway). And at Hermès, the blazer is imagined in what men's ready-to-wear designer Véronique Nichanian calls a 'radiant and bright ocean blue.' She said her inspiration was that of a 'bohemian soul,' who dresses with 'spontaneity.'

阿玛尼(Armani)把休闲西装的方肩松开，打造出适合里维耶拉（译者注：南欧沿地中海地区）(Riviera)的悠闲散漫效果。 罗兰(Saint Laurent)将深蓝色纹理休闲西装与一件芥末黄领尖带扣衬衫和亮粉色拉链短靴搭配（这个造型或许留在T台上比较好）。在爱马仕(Hermes)，休闲西装被打造成了成衣设计师维罗妮克・尼查南(Veronique Nichanian)所说的“光芒四射的亮蓝色”。她说她的灵感是一颗“放荡不羁的灵魂”，穿起衣服来很“即兴”。

'Contrary to conventional wisdom, the blue blazer's a bit of a loose cannon,' said Willie Geist, a co-host of NBC's 'Today' show, who chronicled his love affair with the separate in Esquire last year. 'A suit decided long ago what it wanted to be and it doesn't want to hear your ideas, but a blue blazer only got around to half the job,' he said. 'So it leaves it up to you to find its bottoms. Gray slacks, blue jeans, patterns, white pants and different blue shades all work. Hell,' he paused, 'the blazer's far more open-minded than you'd think.'

美国全国广播公司(NBC)《今日秀》(Today)主持人之一威利・吉斯特(Willie Geist)说：“和传统观点相反，蓝色休闲西装就像是‘不受约束的大炮’。”他去年在《时尚先生》(Esquire)杂志总结了自己对蓝色休闲西装的喜爱。他说：“正装西装很早就定型了，不会理会你的想法，而蓝色休闲西装只做了一半的工作。所以就要靠你来找到下身的搭配，灰色宽松长裤、蓝色牛仔裤、有图案的、白色长裤和各种蓝色长裤都可以。”他顿了顿说：“休闲西装比你想像的要开放得多。”

Continental

欧式风格

Practice a little bit of that eclectic Italian 'spezzato' style and go for a double-breasted wool mohair blazer in a rebellious Mediterranean blue. Match it with a candy-striped shirt, white slacks and a pair of dandy two-toned lace-ups. To combat the early spring rays and pesky breezes on the Ligurian coast, top the look off with tortoise shades and an Agnelli-esque paisley scarf.

试试不拘一格的意大利“混搭”风格，选择一件桀骜不驯的地中海蓝双排纽扣马海毛休闲西装。搭配糖果条纹衬衫、白色宽松长裤和华丽的双色系带鞋。要对抗利古里亚海岸早春的阳光和讨厌的微风，那就再搭配一副玳瑁太阳镜和一条阿涅利(Agnelli)风格的涡纹花呢围巾。

Jacket, $5,200, Shirt, $590, and Scarf, $650, Cesare Attolini, 646-707-3006; Pierre Summer Trouser, $325, and Midwood Lace-up, $595, ovadiaandsons.com; San Luis Sunglasses, $265, Oliver Peoples, 212-925-5400

外套5,200美元，衬衫590美元，围巾650美元，Cesare Attolini，电话646-707-3006；Pierre夏季长裤325美元，Midwood系带鞋595美元，ovadiaandsons.com；San Luis太阳镜265美元，Oliver Peoples，电话212-925-5400

Classic

经典风格

The straightforward navy blazer is the epitome of sporty elegance. Just like bread and butter, there's something unfailingly appealing about the sport coat and khaki pant pairing-just be sure the slacks are slim and not front-pleated. A crisp white button-down and not overly flowery tie touches on the look of Palm Beach, East Hampton and Cape Cod, but without the WASPy sting.

这种简单直接的海军蓝休闲西装是动感优雅的象征。和黄油面包一样，这种休闲外套和卡其裤的搭配拥有经久不衰的吸引力――只是要确保长裤要修身，不要正面打褶。干 利索的白色领尖带扣衬衫和不太花哨的领带会带来棕榈滩(Palm Beach)、纽约东汉普顿(East Hampton)和)科德角(Cape Cod)的感觉，却不带有白人精英阶层的高傲。

Windsor Blazer, $548, and Floral Print Necktie, $68, bonobos.com; Dress Shirt, $92, brooksbrothers.com; Dress Pant, $495, and Couture Loafers, $1,370, Ermenegildo Zegna, 877-806-9478

Windsor休闲西装，548美元，花朵图案领带，68美元，bonobos.com；礼服衬衫，92美元，brooksbrothers.com；正装裤，495美元，Couture乐福鞋，1,370美元，Ermenegildo Zegna，电话877-806-9478

Casual

休闲风格

The I-just-threw-on-a-blazer-over-my-regular-clothes look is an endearing one. Especially when it's executed with humor (and a touch of style). Try a steely blue linen blazer over a Hawaiian shirt (who can tell you're in short sleeves?) with jeans or blue chinos and a dressy lace-up espadrille. Then head to the barbecue and watch the ladies swoon.

“我只是在普通衣服上加了件休闲西装”的装扮是很讨人喜欢的。尤其是带着幽默（以及一丝时尚）的时候。试试灰蓝色亚麻休闲西装搭配夏威夷衬衫（谁会看出来你穿的是短袖？）以及牛仔裤或蓝色斜纹棉布裤，再加一双考究的草编底帆布鞋。然后去参加野餐会，看着女士们为你着迷。

Luxury Italian Linen Made-to-Measure Sportcoat, $420, J.Hilburn, 866-789-5381; Shipley & Halmos Equipment Shirt, $180, nordstrom.com; AMI Pant, $340, Saks Fifth Avenue, 212-753-4000; Canvas Derby, $64, soludos.com

奢华意大利亚麻定制休闲外套，420美元，J.Hilburn，电话866-789-5381；Shipley & Halmos花衬衫，180美元，nordstrom.com；AMI长裤，340美元，萨克斯第五大道精品百货店(Saks Fifth Avenue)，电话212-753-4000；帆布德比鞋(Derby)，64美元，soludos.com。

Cool

炫酷风格

For the urban jungler, a modern midnight-blue blazer in a light cotton/linen blend is just the ticket. A simple cashmere crew layered under a contrasting blue cardigan makes the look grand for casual Friday. The patterned pants and polished oxfords give the ensemble a special night-out-on-the-town panache.

对都市型男来说，现代风格的轻薄绵亚麻混纺深蓝色休闲西装正合适。简单的圆领羊绒毛衣搭配对比鲜明的蓝色开衫让这身装扮在休闲星期五也显得隆重起来。纹理长裤和?亮的牛津鞋让整个装扮有了一种特别的“晚上出去痛快玩”的派头。

Two-Button Jacket, $2,275, Cardigan, $1,900, Crewneck Sweater, $1,325, Straight Trousers, $960, and Derby, $1,325, Hermès, 800-441-4488

两扣外套2,275美元，开衫1,900美元，圆领毛衣1,325美元，直筒裤960美元，德比鞋1,325美元，爱马仕，电话800-441-4488。